Through our friend Carrie we were invited to attend the Corn Festival in Klikor. The day we attended the festivities was the culmination of a month long celebrations when the men of the village enter the Sacred Forest to pray to and appease the male spirit – Kli - Adzima. Carrie’s artist friend Godwin is from this village and so we first went to his house. We met Godwin’s cousins and his wife briefly – she was busy preparing food for us before going off to her food stall in the market. While we were waiting for food, Godwin told us about the history of the festival. Klikor literally means in the lap of Kli – or the lap of the gods. There are two deities in the village – the male spirit and the twin female deity Mama Vena. Today has major significance and the High Priests will perform a number of rituals at the shrines in the sacred forest. Only men are allowed to enter the forest as is often the case when there are secret rituals to be performed. Everyone will then drink maize wine, followed by taking sacred food (Prasad) called gza made from millet and sugar. Then everyone will leave the forest as the women of the village prostrate before them and march on to the Chief’s palace.
After eating akple (corn cooked in water involving lots of stirring until the consistency forms a ball) and vegetarian ground-nut soup, we were given our “cloth” to wear. This is traditional material and basically it is two pieces of material for women – one is worn as a skirt and the other as a top. So both pieces of materials are about 2 yards long, put around the waist and under the arms and are held together by folding the top edges a few times so it does not unravel. No pins or buttons required. I was sure mine would fall of but that did not happen. Michael had a 6 yard cloth which he first put around his body and the remaining was swung over (Michael of course did it in style!) one of the shoulders. Ghanaian men usually wear shorts under this cloth but Michael had not brought his shorts so he went around in his Calvin Kline boxer shorts, not realising he was showing off his boxer shorts to all! Of course only I managed to giggle about it and the rest of the festival goers were mainly impressed with a “Yevu” wearing cloth.
The village was an amazing spectacle – just about everyone was wearing cloth and there was a buzz in the air – excitement mixed with anticipation. People were of course very curious to see our party but very welcoming and impressed too. We walked through the main street on bare feet and the mud road felt hot! Michael said he felt liberated not wearing slippers or shoes while Carrie and I just felt our feet burn!! After watching men go into forest and buying some souvenirs and mingling with the crowds, Godwin asked if he could go to the forest as only Ghanaian men are allowed in. We sat in a cool place in a small spot, people watching and waiting for Godwin.
After a little while he returned saying that the High Priest has given permission for Michael to attend. Of course Michael was going to jump at this offer. He almost ran to the forest – nothing would stop him from learning about what happens in the forest:
What can I say - this was something clearly very special and I was being honoured to enter the forest. I am probably the first white man to ever witness this ritual. I had already been told that there were a number of restrictions/rules in place – being clean of mind and body, having not killed anyone either physically or spiritually and not having had sex the night before! We enter the forest – suddenly we are in a new world away from the clamour of the streets outside. Under the shade of the trees sit hundreds of men – there is a low buzz as people speak in whispers. I am asked to bare my shoulders and remove my watch – for a moment I am totally disorientated as if I have entered another universe. I pass the sacred shrines – priests are busy pouring libations – the hum of chanted prayers – the smell of sacrificial blood. Letting go I relax and space is made for me to sit close to the male shrine. My neighbour, it turns out, is the Keta District Chief Executive. He greets me – I am welcome. I feel incredibly at ease and just surrender to the vibrations. Soon maize wine is being served by the priests from old calabashes – everyone has to drink. Then gza is served – it is sugary and sweet - after solemn warnings from the High Priest that it must be eaten in the forest and not taken outside on pain of perpetual punishment not only for any offender but their family too! Apparently the gza has very strong magical properties that can only protect you if eaten in the forest – naturally I obey!
After eating akple (corn cooked in water involving lots of stirring until the consistency forms a ball) and vegetarian ground-nut soup, we were given our “cloth” to wear. This is traditional material and basically it is two pieces of material for women – one is worn as a skirt and the other as a top. So both pieces of materials are about 2 yards long, put around the waist and under the arms and are held together by folding the top edges a few times so it does not unravel. No pins or buttons required. I was sure mine would fall of but that did not happen. Michael had a 6 yard cloth which he first put around his body and the remaining was swung over (Michael of course did it in style!) one of the shoulders. Ghanaian men usually wear shorts under this cloth but Michael had not brought his shorts so he went around in his Calvin Kline boxer shorts, not realising he was showing off his boxer shorts to all! Of course only I managed to giggle about it and the rest of the festival goers were mainly impressed with a “Yevu” wearing cloth.The village was an amazing spectacle – just about everyone was wearing cloth and there was a buzz in the air – excitement mixed with anticipation. People were of course very curious to see our party but very welcoming and impressed too. We walked through the main street on bare feet and the mud road felt hot! Michael said he felt liberated not wearing slippers or shoes while Carrie and I just felt our feet burn!! After watching men go into forest and buying some souvenirs and mingling with the crowds, Godwin asked if he could go to the forest as only Ghanaian men are allowed in. We sat in a cool place in a small spot, people watching and waiting for Godwin.
After a little while he returned saying that the High Priest has given permission for Michael to attend. Of course Michael was going to jump at this offer. He almost ran to the forest – nothing would stop him from learning about what happens in the forest:
What can I say - this was something clearly very special and I was being honoured to enter the forest. I am probably the first white man to ever witness this ritual. I had already been told that there were a number of restrictions/rules in place – being clean of mind and body, having not killed anyone either physically or spiritually and not having had sex the night before! We enter the forest – suddenly we are in a new world away from the clamour of the streets outside. Under the shade of the trees sit hundreds of men – there is a low buzz as people speak in whispers. I am asked to bare my shoulders and remove my watch – for a moment I am totally disorientated as if I have entered another universe. I pass the sacred shrines – priests are busy pouring libations – the hum of chanted prayers – the smell of sacrificial blood. Letting go I relax and space is made for me to sit close to the male shrine. My neighbour, it turns out, is the Keta District Chief Executive. He greets me – I am welcome. I feel incredibly at ease and just surrender to the vibrations. Soon maize wine is being served by the priests from old calabashes – everyone has to drink. Then gza is served – it is sugary and sweet - after solemn warnings from the High Priest that it must be eaten in the forest and not taken outside on pain of perpetual punishment not only for any offender but their family too! Apparently the gza has very strong magical properties that can only protect you if eaten in the forest – naturally I obey!
The time is now approaching for the men to leave the forest – Godwin quietly shepherds me outside back into the glare of the street so that I can watch the procession leave. It is a truly awesome sight – the High Priests lead the way carrying the sacred symbols of their authority followed by a swarming mass of men. The women throw themselves down in supplication. There is laughter now, shouting, joking – the tension eases – the rituals have been successful, the harvest has been good. It is time to party now in the Chief’s Palace.
