Independence Day

Julius, amazingly agile and faster on his two hands than most of us on two legs,blags his way past security, police and militia. There is much astonishment but little resistance - at one point a soldier with a gun asks me if he knows me - I shamelessly reel off that I work for the Municipal Assembly - nice work if you can get it!

Soon we are ensconced in the "Paramount Chiefs" enclosure - thankfully under cover from the merciless sun and just below the main stage where the politicians and top brass hold court. The Togbe are resplendent in their kente and batik robes, flung over bare shoulders, wearing ancient beads and some sporting some serious gold bling. One, in the front row, has a large staff topped with a great big golden glob - impressive.

Proceedings start - the Chief Minister and his wife are escorted to an open 4x4 - a small set of steps is produced - they climb in and are then driven around to inspect the parade - stylish. Next the bad - immaculate in powder blue uniforms strikes up - it is pure bandvaja - big brass! Endless march pasts follow - military units, the police - even the navy in a spectacular that manages to mix a colonial history with a proud new nationalism. Behind us a policewoman whoops it up big time every time her colleagues march past, finding it hard to contain herself.

Then it is the kids' turn - immaculately turned out and drilled. One very small boy, chest puffed out leads his troupe proudly barking out the order "eyes right"as they salute the VIPs. At the very end a dodgy prankster in shades and suit, carrying a briefcase and wooden sword does the march past - he is quickly escorted away to the amusement of all.

Next the Chief Minister addresses the gathering - hard to decipher what he says through the PA. In the ranks they begin to drop like flies - medics rush backwards and forwards carrying the unfortunate victims out of the sun into the shade. Finally it is time to give out the prizes - the kids in the crowd cheer loudly and there is much confusion as nobody seems to be quite clear who has won what. And then it is all over - a cavalcade of shiny 4x4s roars up to the stage and the VIPs are whisked off in their A/C cocoons - for the rest of us it is time to party!