Last Sunday we climbed our local mountain, Mount Adaklu – a steep, rocky volcanic slab covered in sub tropical forest. Some locals refer to it as their “Table Mountain”. It is about fifteen kilometres from Ho on a muddy red road and this time there were no road blocks (it is common here for people to fill in holes in the road and then stop any traffic for “donations” – or dash). When we arrived in Helakpe, we registered at the visitor centre and paid our entrance fees for the “Mountain Tour”. This is one of many eco projects in the region that have been set up in recent years, mainly by Peace Corps volunteers, to stimulate local tourism. Profits from the projects go to fund local community developments. Sadly there are probably just a few tourists visiting each week.
Two young men were then dispatched to guide us to the next village of Kordiabe. This involved a gentle climb through small farms and forest but already we were both dripping with sweat. No mountain guide was to be found here – it seems that he had probably gone to church in Helakpe – so we were taken to the village chief’s house. Plastic chairs were brought out and after the usual courtesies, Togbe Adjeye the Fourth decided that his eldest son, Wonder could guide us together with one of his younger brothers Kodzo. Wonder is sixteen and next in line to the chieftancy – Kodzo just six years old, full of beans and as bright as a button. 
Two young men were then dispatched to guide us to the next village of Kordiabe. This involved a gentle climb through small farms and forest but already we were both dripping with sweat. No mountain guide was to be found here – it seems that he had probably gone to church in Helakpe – so we were taken to the village chief’s house. Plastic chairs were brought out and after the usual courtesies, Togbe Adjeye the Fourth decided that his eldest son, Wonder could guide us together with one of his younger brothers Kodzo. Wonder is sixteen and next in line to the chieftancy – Kodzo just six years old, full of beans and as bright as a button. 
They both skip cheerfully up the mountain in their flip flops, singing and whistling – Kodzo slashing at the undergrowth with a cutlass almost as big as himself. For us it is a different story – it is gruelling despite the early hour and relative coolness. The humidity is a killer and Wonder is soon carrying Kiran’s pack. It takes a good hour to reach the half way point – a great overhanging rock that forms a natural cave overlooking the village below. A brief rest, some dextrose and it is onwards and upwards. The rocks are slippery and there are several stretches where we have to use ropes. Finally after a short hike through the jungle at the top plateau we reach the summit.
We were rewarded with a magnificent view over Helakpe and the Kolor game reserve. By now Wonder had developed a keen interest in photography and after some experimentation had soon mastered the main functions of my camera. The way down is, if anything, more difficult (I guess that is always generally true) and we made our way carefully down the steep rocks, mostly on our bottoms! Back down in the village we join the Togbe who is now entertaining Mawuli (God exists) Dabi – a local boy made good. He is the Chief Executive of the local District Assembly (a political appointment) and is now standing in the forthcoming elections as local MP for the ruling “elephant” party.
He has lived as a child in Uganda and has been to Jinja – small world! We drink schnapps and exchange stories surrounded by the Togbe’s wives and children. Mawuli then takes us on a quick impromptu visit to the house he has built in the village that he says can be used by tourists to generate money for the community. He proudly announces that you can watch satellite tv in the village – it is almost surreal. All the time he is mobbed by the local villagers anxious to pay their respects and shake the hand of the “Big Man”. He then gives us a lift back to Helakpe in his huge, luxurious, shiny 4X4, stopping frequently to give out posters for his election campaign and to greet his supporters. Wonder, meanwhile, who has come along for the ride continues to snap away – much to the delight of all.
We were rewarded with a magnificent view over Helakpe and the Kolor game reserve. By now Wonder had developed a keen interest in photography and after some experimentation had soon mastered the main functions of my camera. The way down is, if anything, more difficult (I guess that is always generally true) and we made our way carefully down the steep rocks, mostly on our bottoms! Back down in the village we join the Togbe who is now entertaining Mawuli (God exists) Dabi – a local boy made good. He is the Chief Executive of the local District Assembly (a political appointment) and is now standing in the forthcoming elections as local MP for the ruling “elephant” party.He has lived as a child in Uganda and has been to Jinja – small world! We drink schnapps and exchange stories surrounded by the Togbe’s wives and children. Mawuli then takes us on a quick impromptu visit to the house he has built in the village that he says can be used by tourists to generate money for the community. He proudly announces that you can watch satellite tv in the village – it is almost surreal. All the time he is mobbed by the local villagers anxious to pay their respects and shake the hand of the “Big Man”. He then gives us a lift back to Helakpe in his huge, luxurious, shiny 4X4, stopping frequently to give out posters for his election campaign and to greet his supporters. Wonder, meanwhile, who has come along for the ride continues to snap away – much to the delight of all.
1 comment:
Thanks so much for the adventure.
Pleae spell the names properly.Eg. Xelekpe or Helekpe NOT Halakpe etc.
Come again please!!!!
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